Next stop Roma. Rome. The Eternal City and, as so many people say to me, “my happy place”.
I do indeed love Roma – Bella Bella Roma. The city of seven hills, the Eternal City, the centre of the Catholic Church and a city generally regarded as being the cradle of Western civilization and Western Christian culture.
This city, with its history spanning 28 centenaries has a myriad of layers and, while it is indeed “my happy place” and is a city where I genuinely would love to live to truly experience all the seasons in Rome, and so much more.
The irony is that it is a city of enormous conflicting emotions, triggers, shadows and memories as all who have read my book, “My Son Went to Rehab, I Went to Rome – A Journey of Hope” know.
My very first visit to Rome was a work “off-site” and everyone from the Jo ’burg office was flown to Rome (via Paris) for a long weekend. I was a relatively new employee in this international company. The Jo’burg office and team were small and one of my colleagues was very jealous of me. She seemed to feel threatened by me and was relentless in her bullying of me. From arriving in Rome on a Friday morning till we flew back to Johannesburg on the Sunday night, I was bullied by her and she orchestrated events to purposefully exclude from exploring the city with my Jo’burg colleagues. Despite this, setting off on my first walk in Rome, I had an incredible feeling of “coming home”, a sense of freedom and safety we do not have in South Africa and I was overwhelmed with so many intense emotions including such a visceral longing to share this city with my family.
For me, Rome is a city which awakens every sense and this year it was no exception, and my senses were similarly so alive and alert in Florence and Orvieto so it clearly is Bel Paese – Italy.
The second visit to Rome, and Johan’s first, was long-planned and anticipated. We had not factored in Tristan’s active addiction, the intervention and his going to rehab. The 5 weeks before we left when he was at the “height” of his active addiction, so to speak, naturally had a very adverse effect on us, our marriage and, at times, had made me physically ill. We were barely holding it together, especially me, when we arrived in Rome; beaten and broken in every sense and, as the funny cliche goes, "too broke to pay attention" since all our savings had gone to support Tristan and "keep his company going", the reality was that our precious saved funds went to support his drug addiction.
As I have written in my book, it was a time of conflicting emotions and it is the place where we both eventually began to heal.
This visit was, maybe a “redemption trip”, but I had not factored in, the triggers and shadows lurking in the alleyways. A phone call to Tristan, at the end of a really good day, reduced me to tears once I handed the phone to Morgan. I was baffled by my emotions and merely chalked it up to the overwhelming memories of December 2019; vastly underestimating how many emotions I had suppressed 5 years ago and what is suppressed will eventually erupt. I also downplayed the impact and toll the infection I had which resulted in my week long hospitalisation, a few weeks before our departure, had on me. Those emotions continued when we returned home and escalated when I sustained the freak-accident fall culminating in a bad fracture of my right wrist, being hospitalised for a night and undergoing surgery to insert a plate and screws in my wrist, not being able to drive for 6 weeks and learning to adjust and asking for so much help. It was a huge lesson in patience for me and accepting the things I could not control; one of which was this blog being delayed because of my injury. Nothing like 'book-ending" our European Explorations, by being in hospital before and after our travels!
Rome in the fall – brilliant blue clear skies with a light so clear and vibrant, warm days, humid days, overcast and rainy days, throngs of tourists and tour groups, the usual melee of skip-the-line racketeers and hawkers desperate to sell a tawdry trinket, a fake handbag or two, a “throw from Africa” and amongst the daily cacophony of traffic, emergency vehicle sirens and water fountains, traffic detours and boarded up buildings, fountains and statues as Rome prepares for Jubilee 2025 or giubileo.
The 2025 Jubilee Year in Rome is a Catholic tradition which will take place from 24 December 2024 to 6 January 2026 and the focus of next year’s Jubilee is to celebrate forgiveness, reconciliation, and spiritual renewal.
The jubilee occurs every 25 years and is an occasion where devout Catholics, from around the globe, make a pilgrimage to visit the religion’s holiest sies and ask for forgiveness for their sins.
I only discovered it was the jubilee once our air tickets had been purchased and most of the planning had been done, and I was disappointed for Morgan and Alyssa, that so many of the fountains and statues were boarded up for restoration, refurbishment and general sprucing up in honour of the Jubilee. Some of the fountains and statues did have a viewing point so you could still view the beautiful fountain so that was some compensation and, of course, a number of the statues have been refurbished and have been unveiled with the scaffolding taken down, in for the Jubilee.
The detours meant alternative routes were chosen which resulted in unexpected treasures being found like the church, Eglise Santa Maria in Traspontina which is a stunning church very close to St Peter’s Basilica (and, yes, we did not get to see St Peter’s Basilica because it was high season and the queues were so long – and I always say, you have to leave something to return to Rome for!)
My Mom recently asked me what I missed about Rome. I felt quite emotional contemplating my answer and I have this visceral longing to be there, remembering this time 5 years ago we were there, and Rome looks sensational with all the truly magnificent Christmas trees because clearly Bella Roma is putting on all the glam and more for the jubilee – I want to be there sauntering under the Christmas lights, gelato in one hand and a cone of roasted chestnuts in another, gazing in wonder at the fountains, the statues, the elegant and dazzling window displays as well as the beautiful, soaking up the Christmas ambience in the markets and relishing the Roman festive season. Another time .....
What was my answer to my Mom? I miss the opportunity to be able to safely walk whether it is to buy a few pizza a taglio (cut pizza) for supper, catch a bus or the metro; I miss that feeling of freedom to go wherever we want albeit in the daylight or night time and wander into a church and see spectacular historic artefacts, architecture and art. It’s the endless possibilities and opportunities to freely explore and experience the myriad aspects of Rome. I miss the contrasting emotions teetering from excitement and wonder to calm and serenity. It’s a city overflowing with contrasts, history everywhere you look and walk, jostling for attention with the cacophony of modern-day life.
Our time in Rome was challenging – I had done so much research and had so many plans but learnt that the Yiddish proverb, Der Mensch Tracht, Un Gott Lacht which translates to "man plans, and God laughs" is so true. This proverb is a reminder that life's plans can be upended by unexpected events, which can be disappointing or exhilarating. As in Paris, the rain came to play on our parades in had rain in Rome, Florence and Orvieto, a reminder that man cannot dictate to the elements; transport strikes were a new experience for us, and we certainly know how to do things differently next time, and to ensure that when a rain jacket says it is a rain jacket it actually is one in every sense of the word. What is life and travel without lessons being learnt along the way?
No amount of research and planning, could triumph over rain, public transport strikes and other challenges. I am reminded of the line from Robert Burns’s poem, “the best laid plans of mice and men gang all agley “meaning that no matter how well the highest or the lowest of us make plans, the whole thing can go spectacularly wrong anyway. Next trip there will be zero planning though I will have a list of areas to explore, neighbourhood Roman restaurants and trattoria to eat at, churches we have not visited before as well as ensuring we only buy gelato from the very best and most authentic gelateria!
There were some many things which were out of our control – my next blog, about Florence – will elaborate a little on this – and some of the planning for my birthday weekend had to be scuppered as we were concerned about rain and traipsing around Ostia Antica in the rain would not have been pleasant.
I was not sure if it was getting continually wet thanks to the rain, on our travels, that I was battling with an upper respiratory throat infection which resulted in my voice going from a bad imitation of Kermit the Frog to an even worse Bullfrog-type croaking, my chest would wheeze and rattle and the coughing ….. I do not know if the evidence of mould in the first apartment in Rome we rented and shared with Morgan and Alyssa, was also a culprit; but it meant that by the time my birthday was on the horizon, I was thoroughly over getting soaking wet in the rain.
Exploring Rome, Florence and Orvieto with Morgan and Alyssa, was incredible and they both truly spoilt Johan and I so much in terms of food, tickets, gelato, refreshments, a magic trick from one of Rome's magic shops for Johan and endless coffees; not to mention a brilliant pre-birthday dinner at the restaurant less than 5 minutes' walk from where we were staying.
Morgan had managed to make a reservation at Trattoria Pommidoro which had been featured in Stanley Tucci's "Searching for Italy" series on CNN and which we had watched and love (yes, big Stanley Tucci fan here!) - it had been closed for a few years as the original owner and chef had sadly passed away, but had re-opened in 2023. Morgan wanted it to be a big surprise for me but the rain, disrupted bus services and not being able to get a taxi to take us to Trattoria Pomodoro, meant that we just could not get there - Morgan was so upset and disappointed and my heart broke into a million pieces for him (there is a dire shortage of taxis in Rome, a fact which our guide, Claudio, told us when we did a free walking tour with him). We had a delicious meal at Ristorante II Postiglione and a thoroughly enjoyable evening
The morning of my 60th birthday on 4 October 2024 dawned bright and clear. We were up early and cappuccinos and typical Italian breakfast pastries were brought from the coffee bar up the driveway from our apartment, and fueled by caffeine and tasty pastries, we headed to the Trevi Fountain. We wanted to be there as early as possible in order to avoid the crowds and we were to meet up with Mo and Tracy, who had travelled from London the evening before, to join us for my "birthday weekend".
Trevi Fountain, was busy as we arrived there later than anticipated, workmen were starting to offload and put up barricades around the fountain but we got a good vantage point and had the obligatory photos in front of the magnificent 18th century baroque fountain, before heading off to the Pantheon, with the aim to be in the queue ready for the opening.
The barricades that were being offloaded the morning of my birthday were to eventually confine the tourists from the fountain as restoration work was going to be started on the fountain (a temporary body of water was eventually installed so tourists could still throw coins into "the water of the fountain").
Tracy had been in Rome the week before on a work trip and had been in a tour with her colleagues and from this, she knew where we should queue for credit card payments and we were the first in the queue - wonderful to have the insider information from Tracy; grazie mille Tracy!
From the Pantheon, we walked to Sant' Eustachio Il Caffé for coffees and pastries - this coffee shop has a huge global following and is renowned for its coffee; it is the oldest roasting company in the heart of the historic centre of Rome. We did not take any photos as it was quite frenetic but we did get served by the Instagram "famous" waiter, Fabio who is such a character (and his English is good). I would have loved a photo with him but was weirdly, too shy to ask let alone mention that it was my birthday. Devouring delicious coffees and cannoli, we set off to walk to the Jewish Ghetto, via the forum and the Fontana Monumente della Tartarughure (the Turtle Fountain). This Renaissance-era structure was used as a drinking fountain by the early Romans, and was adorned with dolphins instead of turtles until it was restored in the 17th century.
Fontana Monumente della Tartarughure (the Turtle Fountain)
We meandered through this area encountering the "stumbling stones" which are brass plaques to remind people of the residents who were forcibly removed to the concentration camps in World War II and were tragically murdered by the Nazis. A very humbling and sobering memory of a dreadful historical period and the tragedy that no lessons have been learnt from these despicable acts of atrocity.
We stood in awe of the Portico of Octavia, an ancient structure built by Emperor Augustus which was once the site of Rome’s fish market, and serves as a reminder of the Jewish Quarter’s extensive past.
From the Portavia of Octavia, we had good views of what, at first glance, looked like the Colosseum but is in fact, not. It is rather, the Teatro di Marcello which was used as the model for its bigger counterpart, the Colosseum. The Teatro di Marcello / Theatre of Marcellus is a 11th-century amphitheater started by Julius Caesar is the oldest in the city,. The theatre is now home to a set of luxury apartments, so while you can’t actually step inside, a stroll around the outside is an ideal way to soak in history.
Teatro di Marcello
Walking in the direction of Capitoline Hill and the statue of Marcus Aurelius, situated in Piazza del Campidoglio, we were waylaid by an intriguing church and it was such a delight of light, beauty, altars and, while a relatively small church, the small windows in the dome, makes it such a stunning church. This is one of the gems of Rome - an alleyway can lead you to a beautiful church, getting lost in a maze of alleys all looking the same, invariably will be a treasure trove of gorgeous doors, shuttered windows, a feast for your eyes of intrigue and mystery.
Tearing ourselves away from this quaint exquisite church, we climbed the stairs to Piazza del Campidoglio and to view the stunning statue of Marcus Aurelius and explore the piazza before enjoying the views of the various forums and finally winding our way down to the food market in Monti. We installed ours at a vacant table and enjoyed a divine picnic lunch which Morgan had put together and made us delicious panini. A walk to Fata Morgana followed and Fata Morgana is an awesome gelateria as, of course, another day in Rome means an occasion for gelato.
We parted ways (temporarily) with Mo and Tracy close to the Colosseum as we were all feeling the need for a siesta; and reunited again later that evening at Ristorante Romolo e Remo, a neighbourhood restaurant in San Giovanni which was recommended to me by Elysse, of the website and social media, Romewise. It is a restaurant frequented by Elysse and her partner and, in general, the residents of San Giovanni. We had such a divine fun evening that no photos were taken of other 60th birthday dinner.
It truly was a very special and memorable birthday weekend in Rome and I am eternally grateful to Tracy and Mo for travelling to Rome to join us for; we had a special evening on the Saturday night with Tracy and Mo once Morgan, Alyssa, Johan and me had explored the Vatican Museums and we bid farewell to Tracy and Mo after a fun evening of great conversations, delicious food and aperol spritzes at Bibliobar where I also left a copy of my book in the "honesty lending library" there. It felt fitting to leave a copy of my book in this "take one, leave one" library in the the hope that someone, someday picks it up electing to read it and that Tristan's story and the family's story, helps someone. I am sad that we had to opt out of meeting up with Tracy and Mo on the Sunday morning at the Porta Portense market as our legs were on strike and offering limited services like the buses on Saturday, 5 October. Our Saturday evening saw us walking home; a distance of approximately 8km and after waiting for a bus which vanished into the ether, being continually unsuccessful to find a taxi. This was after walking approximately 4 km's to the Vatican Museums and untold kilometres exploring the various museum rooms in the Vatican Museums (all on 1 breakfast pastry and a small packet of nuts). I was exhausted, and the walk home was a long uphill slog; it was not scary and we felt safe walking in the early hours of the Sunday morning but I had seriously lost my sense of humour and so much more, that part of the trudging home I just cried and told Johan to "just let me cry if I want to!" By the time we arrived at our apartment at 1.45am on the Sunday morning, my watch declared I had already achieved my step goal for the Sunday!
It is tempting to write a blog detailing each and every day of our time in Rome but that is not ideal for you, dear reader, so I am now going to 'thumbnail' some aspects and observations of our time in bella Roma.
Free walking tours
Johan and I did 3 free walking tours; one with Morgan and Alyssa, the other two on our own after they had sadly had to leave Italy to return home. We did the "Who Killed Caravaggio" walking tour on a Tuesday afternoon which was really interesting, educational and it was just a pity that some of the Caravaggio paintings were being restored so there were real-life size printed replicas in place; "Ghosts and Mysteries Free Tour: Haunted Places, Murder Places, Execution Places, and Urban Legends" was on a Thursday night at 9pm and was again full of facts, urban legends and intrigue; and Lunch tour with a true Roman (LinkTree: https://linktr.ee/clodslink) - this was a small group and Claudio was a brilliant guide taking us to amazing spots to buy and eat suppli, pizza a taglio (cut pizza), tiramisu and coffee (at Sant'Eustachio Caffé).
Free walking tours are a great go-to especially when you are travelling on a budget; we always tipped the guide €5 per person and these tours are brilliant for getting first-hand knowledge from a guide who lives in the city.
Our recommendations for free walking tours are Guru Walks and Free Tour.
Exploring way-off-the-beaten-track
Because I follow a number of authentic Roman "content creators" and bloggers, who live and work in Rome, I learnt about intriguing places to visit which are not thronged with tourists and your ears (and other senses) are not assaulted by a very loud American declaring "It's just another Egyptian thing" about the Quirinale Obelisk in the Piazza deal Quirinale (the official residence of the Italian President).
Via Margutta is a charming and quiet lane, despite it being fully in the city centre, it was so peaceful. Its garden atmosphere, perfumed by trees and vineyards, made it, in bygone times, a perfect choice for artists, painters, sculptors, and antiquarians. Many of these former artists' studios have been converted into flats and apartments. Among the historical inhabitants of the street were Pablo Picasso, Giulietta Masina, Federico Fellini, Renato Guttuso, Marina Punturieri, and Amerigo Tot.
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The lovely fountain, Fontana delle Arti, which has a triangular base, crowned by a bucket of paint-brushes (symbolizing the presence of artists in the area dating from the 17th century). According to the project architect, Pietro Lombardi, who also designed other small "fontanelle" throughout Rome (usually inspired by the coats of arms of the ancient Roman quarter (rione), the marble fountain was carved in 1927. Two masks are on opposite sides, mounted over marble supports. The images are of the now familiar sad and happy faces, symbolizing the fluctuating moods typical of artists. The two carved faces pour their weak water streams into two small bathtubs. When we were strolling by, an unhoused person was washing her hair and clothes in the fountain, and nobody chased her away; she was left to perform her ablutions with some semblance of peace and dignity which really struck me.
Fontana delle Arti
"Little London"
In the Flaminio district, at the corner of Via Celentano (better known as the Vicoletto del Flaminio), is a gated-off street which Romans refer to as "Little London". It is a miniature Portobello Road, consisting for about 200 metres of two curious rows of colorful houses and well-maintained gardens. We ventured there to view this street and because it is gated off, this is the best photo I could take through the railings, we then found a gem of a coffee bar "Un Caffè… con te" for some refreshment. We love exploring Roman neighbourhoods, away from the well-known tourist "hot spots" and Flaminio is a beautiful, leafy suburb to wander around and experience.
Little London in the heart of Rome
Quartiere Coppede
There are so many hidden neighbourhoods and local areas in Rome. One of the most beautiful of these is the small Quartiere Coppede in the Coppede district. Coppede is the name of the architect who built the buildings and houses in this area which were built between 1919 and 1927; quartiere is the italian word for district or neighbourhood.
The Quartiere Coppede is an area of unique architecture, so its an absolute treat for photographers and / or architecture lovers.
The area is is unique because it mixes several different architectural styles, all coming together to create something never seen before. The strongest influence is the one from art nouveau, which you can spot in the elaborate carvings of the facades and the fountain in the centre, but the attentive eye will also find references to Baroque, Greek and Roman architecture and even more ancient influences like Assyrian time.
From bees and spiders adorning buildings to stunning and elaborate cobalt ceilings and an outside candelabra that will make you think you stepped into a French chateau, visiting Quartiere Coppede was a delight for us.
The Embassy of the Republic of South Africa in Rome is also in this area; we stumbled upon it - the South African flag flying outside the building was something of a giveaway!
There are also Roman neighbourhoods where it is possible to view the street art. One of the areas is a rather sad, down-at-heel area with pockets of houses which are beautifully painted and cared for. A number of the murals have been vandalised which was sad to see. What has not been harmed through grafitti and vandalism, are really impressive.
Public transport versus taxis
The best way to explore Rome, or any other city, is to walk, walk, walk and to look up, down, left and right as you go. Sometimes though you have to rely on other forms of transport to get from the proverbial A to B. As in Paris, bicycles, electric scooters and motorbikes (whether Vespas or Ducati superbikes) are popular and there are bicycles and electric scooters to rent - Morgan and Alyssa had the courage to do that on a few occasions; I would attempt to be brave to hire a bike to cycle around the parklands at Villa Borghese if I was convinced that I would not encounter a car! The trams were not working while we were in Rome as they were being maintained and upgraded in preparation for the Jubilee so it was buses and metros for us.
Taxis are available but there is a huge shortage of taxis and Claudio, our tour guide on the lunch with a Roman walking tour, told us that about a thousand new licenses were being issued for 2025 for taxi drives but it still was not enough. He also confirmed that when there is a public transport strike or rainy weather, it is Mission Impossible to find a licensed metered taxi to hire. And hailing a "pirate unlicensed taxi" is not advised as they are not regulated, overseen and you will be charge an exorbitant amount for the shortest distance.
The metro and buses operate regularly and in quick succession except for when there is a transport strike with limited service. There were also some maintenance being undertaken on certain metro lines and metro station closures which at times were challenging for us.
The first apartment we rented in Rome was over the road from a bus stop (in one direction) and, in the other direction, the bus stop was a few metres from the apartment building and that was very convenient and the nearest metro was a 15 minute walk away. The bus service was somewhat limited and my takeaway from this was to do more research when selecting accommodation in terms of its location and the frequency of public transport. This way you can, hopefully, avoid having to take 3 buses from an area to get home (for example).
The metros are regular and we often waited for the next metro train to come along, if the first one was way too crowded. It also pays to walk to a stop on the platform either to the left or right of the entrance to the platform as that way you will have easier access to a quieter carriage. This does not always happen in practice but its worth a try!
Pickpockets
Yes, there are pickpockets in Rome and there are pickpockets in New York City, London, Berlin and, we were warned by our Uber driver in Paris, in Paris. Pickpockets operate all over the world and Rome is no exception.
On our penultimate day in Rome, I had an unfortunate up-close-and-personal encounter with a gang of pickpockets.
We were returning from a day trip to Ostia Lido (the seaside) and just missed our metro train. The next train which came along was a possibility and I had a weird uneasy feeling about this particular train and I was slower approaching the train to embark it. I wanted to suggest to Johan that we wait for the next train but he was already on the metro train and I tried to get on but was faced with a trio of females who were all facing me - my bag was across my body and I am still furious with myself for not being more alert and not lost in thought. One of the trio said to me in English, "Is this the train for Laurentina?" pointing up at the map which is displayed on the inside of the carriage - I looked up and before I could reply, Johan yelled "Barbara your bag" and rushed to me. I opened my bag and my purse was gone! There was much shouting and cursing and the girls were protesting their innocence and there on the floor of the carriage was my purse - there were no Euros in my purse, some rands and my South African ID and drivers license card. I grabbed my purse and Johan had grabbed 2 of the girls shouting at them; and demanding to know where the police were - on the more "busier" metro stations there is always visible policing. A tall guy appeared and harangued the girls but we realised that he was part of the pickpocketing gang. This all felt like it was taking so long but it could not have taken more than 5 minutes and I kept wondering why the train doors had not closed and the train departed. The girls ran off and Johan and I got back on the metro as did the tall guy - he was a little way along from where we were standing and I was increasingly uncomfortable so at the next stop we disembarked and waited for another metro train to arrive. We eventually got home and we were fine though I was very shaken up; we had come to no harm and nothing had been stolen except my pride and I felt robbed of the opportunity to swear at the girls in Italian and to scream "Pickpocket".
I was targeted because the gang thought I was on my own. And I suspect that my attire might have indicated that I was not either Roman let alone Italian (see my comments below for this to make sense).
Doing some delving into You Tube about pickpockets in Italy later that night, I discovered that, at some point, the US Embassy were processing, on average, 100 applications for replacement passports. That is quite a statistic. When we travel, we always ensured we had copies of all our identification documents on our phones and hard copies and leave our passports at our accommodation. And when we do travel with our passports, they are secured in our anti-theft backpack.
Seasons
No matter the weather, Romans (and probably all Italians) dress for the season and not the weather. We encountered sunny, warm and humid days in Rome and I was constantly amazed at seeing Romans dress in long sleeved sweaters with jackets on a day when I was hot and sweaty. We were there in autumn (fall) and Romans were dressing according to the season. This fact was affirmed on a morning when we were travelling on a relatively long metro journey and were in a generally empty carriage. We were seated across from 2 American ladies who were being accompanied by a Roman lady who seemed to be their tour guide for the day. Said Roman lady was dressed in a long sleeved maxi dress and had sneakers on; her American companions were in shorts, tshirts and one lady was constantly fanning herself (it was a hot and humid day!) - one of the Americans asked Roman Lady if she was not hot or going to be hot in her dress; and her response was no, I am dressed for the season and as it is autumn, this is fine (or words to that effect). She continued her explanation that tourists are easily identifiable by wearing t-shirts in the autumn and shorts and other seemingly "summer attire" in the autumn season. This statement made sense to me and now I understood why Claudio (our guide when we lunched with a Roman) was dressed in a long sleeved sweater with a sleeveless puffer jacket when we were in tshirts and jeans, and others on the tour were in very summery dresses (see photo below). So it was not about being acclimated to the weather and season but rather, its autumn so a person's attire must be appropriate for ten season. Hence my clothing was a giveaway to those pesky pickpockets!
And that is my blog on Rome on this, the 1st January 2025 - here's to a year full of blank pages for you to create your own story, to fill the pages with travel whether in person or arm chair travel and adventures, to write a year's long story of your own adventures and accomplishments.
Next blog : Florence, Orvieto and Ostia Lido and I promise it will not be so long until I write and publish it. Thank you for your patience and supporting this blog of mine!
"Italians have a famous saying, “Dolce far Niente”, which means “the sweetness of doing nothing.” It does not refer to being lazy, it refers to the similar saying “take the time to smell the roses” and the pleasure one gets from being idle. With all the technology pulling our attentions away from the beauty of the world around us – both in the people we meet and the people we love, as well as the beauty of nature, I share how this saying is filled with much wisdom and truth—especially when traveling to Italy."
Ciao - Alla prossima volta!!
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