Fast trains, delays, Duomo, glamping and statues
Bright and early on Wednesday, 2 October we set off to Termini in Rome (the big station for buses, coaches, trains and the metro) opting to have breakfast at the big food mercato at Termini before our departure on the fast train to Florence. We were booked on the fast train, Frecciarossa, due to depart at 09h10 with arrival in Florence (Firenze) at 10h46 but, again, best laid plans and pre-booked tickets are no guarantee for trains running on time; and the effect an unexpected power outage (which we are used to in South Africa) which had effectively crippled Rome's rail network for hours. This article from Wanted in Rome details what happened
"Italian railway infrastructure manager RFI suspends contract with private company blamed for bringing Rome's rail network to its knees.
Italy's transport minister Matteo Salvini on Wednesday blamed a private company for causing the power outage that resulted in train chaos in Rome and across the country earlier that day.
Commuters and tourists faced delays of up to four hours after a blackout between Termini and Tiburtina railway stations paralysed the capital's rail network and led to the cancellation of more than 100 trains.
The delays affected regional trains across the Lazio region, including to Rome's Fiumicino airport, as well as high-speed services to Milan, Naples and Turin, leaving thousands of people stranded.
Salvini told reporters on Wednesday afternoon that the blackout had been caused by a worker from a private firm hammering "a nail into a cable" at "three o'clock in the morning".
"It is not possible that a mistake by a private company can stop half of Italy", Salvini said, adding that he wanted "the name, surname and tax code of the person who ruined the day for thousands of Italians who were stranded from north to south."
Salvini, who earlier on Wednesday faced calls from the opposition to resign, came in for renewed criticism for his explanation about how the capital's rail system was brought to its knees, amid claims that he used the private firm as a scapegoat.
On Wednesday evening, the Italian railway infrastructure manager RFI said it had suspended the contract with the company in question."
The station platforms were packed and the poor train officials were being bombarded from all sides by annoyed, irate, passengers - mostly foreigners as the Italians were way more accepting and resigned to the situation, is that because of the attitude of dolce far niente or just coping with the unexpected events. There was communication via e-mail, sms and the LED display boards and, under the circumstances, it was all controlled and dignified (if that is possible). We were also offered a 50% compensation because of the train delays and a compensation request was going to be pursued by me but when I entered the details on the website, it said an application for compensation had already been submitted. Time will tell if we receive any compensation.
Our train eventually departed for Firenze approximately 3 hours after it was scheduled to depart (we were lucky as some train journeys were simply cancelled), we had comfy seats and a beautiful view of the Tuscan countryside and the medieval village of Orvieto perched on a rock cliff in Umbria.
Upon arrival at the station in Florence, Santa Maria Novella we followed exits marked with a green X, making our way to the shopping gallery and along the holographic tunnels (as per the photo below) and the ramp to safely exit the station without having to navigate trams, buses, taxis, cars, bikes and vespas from every direction - this was guidance from Elysse of Romewise (and now Florencewise) and was the speediest and safest route to take emerging into the Piazza Dell'Unita Italiana and to the Mercato Centrale Food Market.
The Mercato Centrale Food Market consists of 2 stories of so many different food stalls with lots of communal tables to sit and eat at (upstairs). It is also a great place to use the restroom; and is the place where there are 'bouncers' at the entrance to the restrooms (as is also the case at the Mercato at the Termini in Rome) - the bouncer will check your receipt to allow you access to the restroom (at Mercato Centrale Roma you scan the barcode from your receipt to gain access after showing the bouncer-type guy your receipt).
After buying some food and enjoying a late lunch at a small stall who were happy for us to sit and eat even though the official closing time of the food market was 3pm and it was very close to that time, we emerged and started making our way towards the Piazza del Duomo. The weather was, at this stage, sunny though the day was cloudy and we enjoyed exploring the sights and sounds of Florence, the beautiful shops with immaculate tempting window displays and a sweet shop decorated for Halloween; and a store where we were lured in and given the most delectable samples of chocolates and lemon cookies and more.
Turning a corner and there is the magnificent complex of the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, the iconic Duomo, was breathtaking. I had such an emotional reaction to seeing this spectacular historic landmark, I burst into tears - to be able to view it up close and personal, to simply gaze in wonder and awe was truly overwhelming for me. Very sadly, by the time we arrived, it was closed which for me was a big personal disappointment but means I am determined to return! Parts of the Duomo are only available through the purchase of tickets but entrance to the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, is free and to experience a church service in the Duomo will not only be a privilege but such a memorable event. It will happen!
We were able to enjoy the beautiful interior and exterior of the Basilica Santa Trinita, viewed an amazing model of Florence all in braille and watched a number of brides up and down the one side of the River Arno, having photo shoots. We did not cross the Arno at the Ponte Vecchio but were able to view it and marvelled at the throngs of cyclists effortlessly circumnavigating Florence.
We had to travel to our accommodation, HU Camping in Town Firenze, by bus and this was an experience. In Rome, because we had weekly passes for all public transport, which we would always validate upon purchasing and using, at a metro, we were unable to validate the passes on the buses. Validation of tickets on any public transport anywhere in Italy is vital, a lesson which was unfortunately soon learnt by us on the bus journey to our glamping destination. There had been no discussion about buying tickets so Johan upon boarding the bus bought a ticket from the driver - he was about to buy a ticket for me but was stopped by Alyssa telling him that she had bought tickets for all of us on an app. I was really not feeling well and just wanted to grab a free seat to sit down and rest a while so did not pay too much attention with what ensued or did not ensue. As the bus journeyed along, it filled up with passengers and eventually it was sardine-like standing room only - after one stop, there was a lot of noise and conversation but again I was not really aware, did not turn around to see what was the cause of the commotion, focusing on looking at the views outside the bus window. Suddenly there were 3 bus inspectors next to the seats where the 4 of us were sitting - they wanted to see our tickets; they were electronic and had not been validated as even when purchasing tickets via an app, you should then validate the tickets by scanning the QR code - Johan was in the clear as when he bought his ticket, because he used his bank card to pay, it was automatically validated; but Morgan, Alyssa and I were fined €40.00 each (approximately R778 each!) - Morgan generously paid for all 3 fines and after our ID's were inspected and the fines and payments processed, the bus inspectors disembarked the bus leaving us stunned - a delayed departure to Firenze and now huge fines, what more did this trip have in store for us?
Our overnight accommodation at HU Camping in Town was a 'glamping' experience as we booked 2 tents (as I type this I remember how I made an error in my initial booking of the accommodation; wrong date and a chalet and so I lost financially as between booking.com and the accommodation, they would not modify my reservation or refund me - an expensive lesson learnt)
The rain started as we approached hu Camping in Town and it continued throughout the night; the next morning we took the shuttle from the accommodation site to Florence. The shuttle stopped on the other side of the Arno River and it was then a 30 minute walk to Piazza della Signoria dodging buses offloading tour groups and the vendors who would rain en masse to meet the arrival of buses and coaches in order to sell their wares of umbrellas and rain ponchos. The rain was not stopping though it did not deter the residents of this very pretty town who were cycling by - I was so impressed by a very elegant lady riding her bicycle holding an umbrella with her right hand and steering the bike with her left hand and clearly enjoying the experience. I wished I could have taken a photo but was too wet, my chest wheezing and feeling very bedraggled! Eventually we found ourselves in Piazza della Signoria and gaping, with appreciation, at the replica of the statues of David and Hercules and Cacus, in front of the Palazzo Vecchio. The statue of Hercules and Cacus has a complicated and highly political history. The finished work is by Baccio Bandinelli, a Florentine sculptor. It was commissioned by the republican council of Florence, to commemorate the victory over the Medici, as a pendant to Michelangelo's David,
Replica of Michelangelo's statue of David
We were able enjoy some cover from the rain thanks to the Loggia dei Lanzi, also known as Loggia della Signoria, a building on a corner of the Piazza della Signoria which adjoins the Uffizi Gallery; and were able to enjoy the sights and delights of the open area of the Palazzo Vecchi.
We returned to the magnificent food market which was thronged with tourists and Florentines alike looking for shelter from the rain and / or food. Johan and I managed to grab a couple of seats while Morgan and Alyssa walked around and had something to eat; I sat and dripped everywhere and managed to dry off a little though even my underwear was soaked so changing my top, for example, was not a viable option. Unfortunately we did not retrace our steps of the previous day to return to the station so our walk to the station took over 30 minutes instead of 15 minutes and it was a dash to get to our train and find our seats before the train departed. It was a relief to be able to sit, dry off a little and give my chest and throat a bit of a break from the elements and exercise.
We have to return to Firenze (Florence) and when we return we will stay closer to the city centre and ensure we have time to properly explore all the delights and beauty of Firenze from the interior of the Duomo, to Ponte Vecchio, the wine windows, the Ancient Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella to the Boboli Gardens, witness the sunset from the Piazzale Michelangelo, enjoy a gelato and have a coffee at the Sophia Loren restaurant.
"Florence and art is something that is part of my life and is part of myself."
Roberto Cavalli
“Among the four old bridges that span the river, the Ponte Vecchio, that bridge which is covered with the shops of Jewellers and Goldsmiths, is a most enchanting feature in the scene. The space of one house, in the centre, being left open, the view beyond, is shown as in a frame; and that precious glimpse of sky, and water, and rich buildings, shining so quietly among the huddled roofs and gables on the bridge, is exquisite”.
Charles Dickens, Writer, Pictures from Italy, 1846.
Firenze, torneremo per immergerci nella tua bellezza e nella tua storia
(Florence, we will return to soak up your beauty and history)
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